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PROTOTYPING
A concept model typically shows only what a
product will eventually look like. It helps investors, potential
partners, and the people you contact for market research to get a better
idea of your product’s appearance. So-called “appearance models” are
concept models that simulate the look of the final product, and they are
used for initial brochures, publicity releases, and trade shows when the
final product is not ready. It also helps the inventor get a sense of
the proportion and style of the final product.
Using Balsa WoodDescription: This makes for an “odds-and-ends” prototype
that is a do-it-yourself project. It uses tools and material found in
the home workshop or readily available from hardware stores, craft
supply shops, building supply “supermarkets,” and auto supply stores.
Balsa wood is perfect for products that have curves. Products used for: Any. Cost range: Free to $25 for most. Resources: Local hobby shops and craft
suppliers have useful publications that will guide you in a wide range
of tabletop processes for cutting and working with balsa wood. Making your prototype: However crude, making
a prototype out of balsa wood and other found materials is often useful
as a concept model. Because such a prototype is fast to make and
inexpensive, you can remake it several times until it looks and feels
right. Using Hobby Shop ProductsDescription: You can make concept models
yourself using the foam, plastic, wood, glue, and metal parts found at
most hobby shops. Products used for: Any. Cost range: Free to $25 for most. Resources: Local hobby shops and craft
suppliers have both materials and how-to books. Making your prototype: One of the easiest
materials to work with in making large items is foam board. This
sign-making and self-supporting board consists of front and back
surfaces of white cardboard laminated to a core of Styrofoam. It is
approximately a quarter-inch thick and can be cut using a hobby knife or
a jigsaw. Foam can also be easily curved. Start by making closely spaced
parallel lines using a ballpoint pen or a dull table knife on the inside
of the part you want curved. Then curve the piece, and it will hold its
new shape. You can join pieces of foam with a glue gun or one of the
special glues (sold at craft supply stores) made for Styrofoam. For thick sections, plain Styrofoam is sold
at craft shops in a wide variety of shapes. If you intend to photograph
the finished item, balsa wood, also available in thick pieces as well as
thin, can be sanded and painted. Balsa wood’s main advantage over pine
or poplar is that it is very easy to carve. However, it is generally too
soft for functional prototypes, which are best made from maple if
strength is needed. Maple has a fine grain, and it can be sanded and
painted for a near-perfect surface. Bondo, which is a plastic filler used in
automobile body repair work, can be added to wood, plastic, foam board,
and so on to produce compound curves and fillets, as well as to fill
joints. A compound curve is a secondary or more complicated curve than
you can make with just a piece of foam or wood. For example, if you have
a curved computer monitor with a small half moon on the top, that half
moon is a compound curve that you could produce with Bondo. A fillet is
a small curve that
joins two
flat parts.
Apply Bondo in layers no more that an eighth-inch thick to minimize
cracking and shrinking. Bondo begins to harden in a matter of minutes,
so be cautious about mixing too much or adding too much hardener, which
affects its cure time. Bondo can be sawed, sanded, and painted for
outstanding effects. Sculpy is a ceramic imitation that can be
“fired” in your kitchen oven. It can be molded into almost any shape,
like modeling clay. It is available from craft stores.
“LOOKS LIKE, WORKS LIKE”
Appearance and concept models are not
functional. In fact, they will often fall apart if handled too
roughly. “Looks like, works like” prototype parts are not only
functional but they look like the final product. The inventor uses them
for market research with customers and for functional tests to see if
the product will really work. They typically are not as strong as the
final product, but they will last long enough for some product testing.
Using Stock PlasticsDescription: This covers cutting and gluing
together stock plastic shapes—such as sheets, tubes, and round and
rectangular bars—using standard consumer hand and power tools. Products used for: Many parts that will be
plastic injection molded in production can be assembled from stock
plastics shapes. Cost range: $10 to $100. Resources: Try national plastics suppliers
such as AIN, Cadillac Plastics, and McMaster-Carr Supply Co. Smaller
suppliers as well as plastic fabrication shops may be found locally. Making your prototype: Stock plastics are
readily available in a wide range of sizes: stock sheets of various
thicknesses, bars and tubing of various diameters, and rectangular stock
of various lengths and widths. These plastics can be divided into two
main groups: commercial plastics and engineering plastics. The
engineering plastics, such as nylon, Delrin, and polycarbonate, are
so-called because they are not commonly used in high-volume consumer
items due to their cost, and they have combined properties of strength,
impact resistance, and resistance to chemicals that the less-expensive
commercial plastics lack. For prototyping, the main consideration,
rather than cost, may be whether a plastic can be glued and successfully
painted. Many common plastics are impossible to glue using off-the-shelf
adhesives, and those that cannot be glued do not have acceptable paint
adhesion either. The common plastics that are difficult to glue are
nylon, Delrin (acetal), polyethylene, and polypropylene. Common plastics
that are easily glued include acrylic, high-impact polystyrene, ABS, PVC
(vinyl), and polycarbonate. Acrylic and polycarbonate are transparent;
the others are opaque. Acrylic is brittle, but polycarbonate can be
distorted or dropped without cracking. Acrylic is available in a
scratch-resistant type. Polycarbonate, used for bulletproof windows, is
more susceptible to scratching. PVC and ABS are easy to machine using
ordinary home workshop tools, including a table saw and router. If in
doubt about which plastic to use for your prototype, start with PVC for
opaque work and polycarbonate for transparent work. Glues for PVC and
ABS are found at building suppliers and good hardware stores, or they
may be ordered from plastics suppliers.
Using Stock Metals Description: Applications include cutting a
profile shape in sheet metal or bar stock, and optionally bending and/or
joining to other parts by welding or screwing. Products used for: Any part that imitates a
punch press stamping or sheet metal fabrication. Cost range: $100 to $500 for several pieces. Resources: Job shops listed in the Yellow
Pages under “Sheet Metal Fabricators,” “EDM” (electrical discharge
machining), “Laser Cutting,” “Water Jet Cutting,” and “Chemical
Milling.” Making your prototype: Sheet metal
fabricators are of two distinct types: those that make heating and
air-conditioning ductwork and so on, and those that do precision work,
which is nearly always what the inventor is seeking. Precision sheet
metal fabricators cut shapes in sheet metal first by shearing from a
large sheet, and then by stamping using a variety of steel in
thicknesses from about .022 to about .100 inch. Less popular
thicknesses are also available, and materials can be special ordered.
Bending is done on a press brake. Drawing of metal, such as a bowl
shape, is not a conventional process in most sheet metal shops, and must
be prototyped by spinning. (Spinning vendors are found in the Thomas
Register of American Manufacturers.) Small parts that will be stamped when in
volume production can be profiled using wire EDM, laser cutting, or
water jet cutting. A wire EDM machine works something like a band saw,
except the “blade” is a wire. The process is electrical, and is
essentially the opposite of welding. The metal being cut is deposited on
the wire. The machine is computer driven, and, except for threading the
wire through internal holes or other closed cutouts within the periphery
of the part, it is automatic. Laser cutting is accomplished by using a
computer-driven intense laser beam that cuts the profile and any
internal cutouts automatically. Parts may be cut in stock up to about a
quarter of an inch. For thicker stock, abrasive water jet is typically
more economical. Abrasive water jet cutting is done by a
computer-driven machine that jets a needle-thin stream of water
containing a very hard grit at pressures up to 60,000 psi. This process
can cut metal up to about eight inches thick. Precision is lost as the
thickness increases. Plastics, including foam, can be cut by water jets
without the abrasive grit. EDM, laser, and water jet cutting require a
computer program that is developed from your mechanical drawing. CAD
drawings can be inexpensively amended for this purpose. Chemical milling (or chemical machining) is a
photographic process that is generally used for relatively thin parts. A
drawing is made of your part and then reproduced several times on a
photographic negative by the “step and repeat process.” A sheet of metal
up to 24 inches long and up to about a 16th of an inch thick is coated
with a photographic emulsion and exposed through the negative. It is
then developed to expose the unwanted metal, which is etched away by a
chemical spray. Blanks produced by any of the above processes can be
bent to form parts that look convincingly as though they were produced
by a punch press. The cost of each of these processes varies
according to the characteristics of your part, the kind of machinery a
specific vendor uses, and how receptive the vendor is to working with a
small job presented by an inventor. The only sure way to obtain the
lowest cost is to submit a good mechanical drawing and request pricing
from several vendors, perhaps two of each type of process for best
results. Many vendors of these processes also provide
welding, usually TIG (tungsten inert gas) or MIG (metal inert gas)
welding, either of which is much neater in appearance than “stick”
welding. Parts that are around a 16th of an inch or thinner can be spot
welded. Aluminum spot welding requires special machines that are not
commonly found in sheet metal shops, but you can find them by calling
shops listed under “Welding” in the Yellow Pages.
Description: This involves removing material
with cutting tools such as a drill press, lathe, and milling machine.
Machining is purchased as a service from a prototyper or small machine
shop. Products used for: Any that are made from
plastic or metal; usually for prototype parts that will be injection
molded or die cast when in volume production. Cost range: $50 to $1,000. Resources: Prototypers and small machine
shops found in the Yellow Pages, or in Inventor’s Digest classified ads,
and by referrals from fellow inventors met through networking. Making your prototype: A lathe is something
like a drill press turned on its side, except that the work piece (the
part being machined) is held in the chuck, rather than the cutting tool.
Lathes create cylindrical shapes. A milling machine—more precisely, a vertical
milling machine—again resembles an upright drill press. The cutting
tool, usually an end mill, resembles a drill, except it has a flat or
round tip, and its edges are razor sharp. The work piece is held in a
vise, or clamped directly to the mill table, and is moved against the
revolving cutting tool. Movement of the mill table is in any of three
axes: X, Y, and Z, which are left to right, front to back, and up and
down respectively. Manually operated milling machines produce
rectangular shapes, although CNC (computer numerically controlled)
milling machines can produce nearly any profile that can be drawn using
a computer. Lathes and milling machines are mainly used
to machine metals, but they are also used for machining plastics. The
best machining plastic is Delrin, though PVC, ABS, and nylon machine
well. Polycarbonate, while easy to machine, does not produce a beautiful
finish like the other plastics. And acrylic is touchy. When drilling any
plastic, there is always the danger of the drill grabbing the
plastic—which spoils the work and can injure the machinist—but acrylic
takes first prize in this respect. Brass and copper are even more
dangerous to drill. Never, never drill acrylic, brass, or copper without
clamping it securely to the drill press table. Drilling any of these
with a hand-held power drill is also dangerous, even when the work piece
(the part being machined) is held in a vise. The drill may be grabbed
from your hand as the drill bit breaks through the far side. Experienced
machinists can regrind drills to take the spiral edge off and thereby
prevent the grabbing. Model maker usually have their own preferred
suppliers, but small machine shops may work nearly entirely in metals
and may not have convenient sources for plastics. You will usually be
able to save money by hunting down the plastic stock yourself, in which
case you are entitled to receive the unused portion back from the model
maker.
Casting Plastics At Room Temperature Description: A two-component resin, similar
to epoxy, is mixed and poured into a silicone rubber mold. The reusable
mold is made from two liquid silicone components that are mixed and
poured over a master pattern. The process can be learned for home shop
production. A good source of information for this tactic is the Model
Makers Handbook (Alfred Knopf) by Albert Jackson and David Day. Another
source is Castolite Inc., a manufacturer of many prototype molding
compounds; write to them at PO Box 391, Woodstock, IL 60098. Products used for: This works for any parts
that are made from plastic, but usually parts that will be injection
molded when in volume production and are smaller than a grapefruit. Cost range: $50 to $150 if you do it
yourself. Resources: Polytek Development Corporation’s
catalog. Vendors that cast parts are those that provide SL and SLS
services. Making your prototype: This process starts
with a model of the part you intend to cast. This model can be made from
metal, plastic, wood, or even Ivory soap if the part is not delicate.
Molds are made in two steps. The model is suspended by a string half an
inch above the bottom of a small container, such as a plastic
refrigerator container, and a two-part mix of silicone rubber (which
becomes the mold) is poured halfway up the model. This is allowed to
cure overnight, and it becomes the first half of the mold. Then, a mold
release (Vaseline is excellent) is applied to the exposed top rubber
surface to prevent the next pour from adhering. (Silicone won’t stick to
anything except itself.) The model is then turned over and suspended
over a container into a two-part mix of silicone rubber that just
touches the first part of the mold. When the second pour is cured, the
mold is removed from the container; the model is removed from the mold
by splitting the mold where the two parts meet. Then channels are cut,
or holes drilled, to provide an inlet for the plastic and an outlet for
air. A two-part plastic resin, usually
polyurethane, is mixed and poured in the mold; this is cured for several
hours. The cast part is removed, the inlet and outlet channel runners
are trimmed off, and you have a part that closely resembles one that
came from an expensive permanent injection mold. Polyurethane is
available at hobby shops in a wide range of hardness, from soft as
rubber to hard as acrylic. Casting Metal Parts At Low Temperatures Description: This covers the melting of
alloys at less than 600˚F and casting them in silicone rubber molds.
This can be done at home. Products used for: Parts that will be die
cast when volume produced. Cost range: $50 to $100. Resources: Polytek Development Corp.,
McMaster-Carr Supply Co., and building supply and plumbing supply
stores. Making your prototype: Cerro alloys are
available in melting temperatures as low as 158°F. These alloys start at
about $14 per pound. The lowest cost alloy is Cerroshield, which melts
at just under the boiling point of water. McMaster-Carr’s catalog number
for Cerroshield is 8921K23. Plumbers solder, which does not contain
(poisonous) lead, melts between 500˚ and 600˚F and is less expensive
than Cerroshield. Either of these alloys produces a part that is not as
strong as the eventual die casting but is generally satisfactory for a
prototype. Castings below 600˚F can be made in the same silicone rubber
molds as is used for casting plastics (see above). Dust the mold with
talcum powder to produce the best surface finish.
Casting Metal Parts At High Temperature Description: This is a foundry process of
creating metal parts from various molds. It requires outsourcing to a
vendor and cannot be done at home. Products used for: Parts that will be die
cast when produced in volume, or parts that will be cast using the same
process in volume production. Cost range: From one to several thousand
dollars. Resources: Thomas Register of American
Manufacturers or the Yellow Pages. Making your prototype: Investment casting
(also known as the “lost wax” process) uses a wax pattern of the part
you wish to cast. This pattern is invested (coated) with a plaster, the
wax is melted out, and metal is poured in. This ancient process has
changed little in four or five thousand years. Creating the wax pattern
can be done by the SL, SLS or MJM methods (see “Computer-driven Additive
Processes” below for descriptions of these methods). Plaster casting is a service offered by some
of the die-casting vendors for customers who must prototype their parts.
The model used to make the plaster mold is made by any of the same
processes that are used for investment casting. Plaster molds, like
investment molds, are destroyed in removing the parts. Sand casters represent the “smokestack” era
of manufacturing, but they are still predominantly used in the casting
of large parts, especially cast iron. The master pattern consists of a
model of the part that is split in half and mounted on a board. A fence
is placed around the board; a sand, clay, and binder mix is poured over
the pattern; the half-mold is inverted; and the pattern is removed. The
opposing half is made the same way. The two halves are put together,
molten metal is poured, and when cooled, it is removed as the casting.
The pattern is often made from wood, but for smaller parts it can be
made from plastic by the SLS process. Computer-Driven Additive Processes Description: A three-dimensional image is
created using a computer that then drives a variety of equipment to
produce prototype parts. The image is amended to create a machine
program, which drive the X, Y, and Z axes of the machine. Products used for: Any parts that will be
made by injection molding when in volume production, or parts that
become patterns for plastic or metal casting. Cost range: $500 to several thousand dollars. Resources: Thomas Register and Yellow Page
listings under “Stereo lithography,” “Selective Laser Sintering,” and
“Rapid Prototyping.” Making your prototype: Rather than remove
material, as in machining processes, these processes add material or
solidify it to produce a net shape without waste. The SL (stereo
lithography) process uses a liquid plastic that is hardened by an
ultraviolet laser beam. A platform is positioned about two human hairs
below the top of the liquid. The machine program, which has “sliced” the
3-D computer image into hundreds of thin digital slices, scans and
hardens the plastic, thereby creating the bottom “slice” of the
prototype. The platform drops down one slice (about .005 inches), and
scans again, bonding the new slice to the first. This process is
repeated slice by slice until the entire height is reached. The plastic
used in SL is relatively fragile, and it is often honeycombed to reduce
the amount of material used and the process time. The parts are seldom
used directly in prototypes except to check fits and to visually
evaluate the concept. The selective laser sintering (SLS) process is
much the same as SL, except that a powdered plastic is used. The
plastics used are stronger than that of SL and can be used directly in
prototypes. Multi-jet modeling (MJM) is a wax jetting
process that builds a wax prototype layer by layer, as in SL and SLS.
The wax model can be used as a pattern for silicone rubber molds, or as
a sacrificial pattern for investment casting or plastic casting. |
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Service Tags: Prototype,working Prototype, prototype design, prototype
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